The
venerable city of KOCHI (Long known as Cochin), is Kerala's
hottest tourist spot, spreading across islands and promontories
in a stunning location between the Arabian Sea and bbackwaters.its
main sections-modern Ernakulam, in the east, and the old districts
of Mattancherry and Fort Cochin on a peninsula in the west-are
linked by a complex system of ferries, ad distinctly less romantic
bridges. |
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Although
most visitors end up staying in Ernakulam, For Cochin and Mattancherry
are the focus of interest, where the city's extraordinary history of
foreign influence and settlement is reflected in an assortment of architectural
styles.
During
a wander through their narrow lanes, you will stumble upon spice
markets, Chinese fishing nets, a synagogue, a Portuguese palace,
India's
first European church, Dutch homes, and a village green that could
have been transported from England's Home Counties. The city is also
one of the few places in Kerala where, at any time of year, you
can be assured of seeing Kathkali dance,either in one of several
special tourist theatres,or at a more authentic performance by a
temple based company.
Kochi
was born in 1341,when a flood created a natural safe port that swiftly
replaced Muziris (Kodungallur,50km north) as the chief harbour on
the Malabar coastline.The royal family transferred here from Muziris
in 1405,after which the city grew rapidly,attracting Christian,Arab
and Jewish settlers from the Middle East.Its name probably derives
from kocchazhi,meaning the new, or small,harbour.The history of
the European involvement in Kochi from the early 1500s onwards is
dominated by the aggression of, successively, the Portuguese,Dutch
and British,competing to control the port and its lucrative spice
trade.From 1800 the state of Cochin was part of the British Madras
Presidency; from 1812 until Independence in 1947,its administration
was made the responsibility of a series of divan, or finance ministers.
In the 1920s, the British expanded the port to make it suitable
for modern ocean-going ships; extensive dredging created Willingdon
Island, between Ernakulam and Fort.
Fort Cochin
Moving
northwest from Mattancherry Palace along Bazaar Road, you pass wholesale
emporia where owners, sitting behind scales surrounded by sacks
of spices, may well be prepared to talk about their wares. Keep
walking in a northerly direction, over the canal and then westwards
into Fort Cochin. The architecture of the quiet streets in this
enclave is very definitely European, with fine houses built by wealthy
British traders, and Dutch cottages with split farm house doors.
At the water's edge there's a bus stand, boat jetty and food and
drinks stalls.
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